Saigon is known for its many interesting Buddhist and Taoist pagodas, many of which have large historical importance in the history of the city.

One that serves as a great example is Xá Lợi Pagoda in District 3, which is the largest pagoda in the city and well worth a visit by travelers. This is not so much for its visual beauty, but rather for the historical importance of the pagoda, which once served as the headquarters of Buddhism is South Vietnam.

Please note that the doors to the main hall of the pagoda close around lunchtime, so I would highly recommend you arrive to the pagoda well before then, or later in the afternoon.

Xá Lợi is a relic repository, housing a sacred relic of the Buddha. In fact, the name Xá Lợi is the Vietnamese translation for the Sanskrit term used for relics of Buddhism.

The pagoda is not far from the tourist area in District 1, so it’s easy to find on your own. However, it is a bit off the beaten tourist path, but any taxi driver would know immediately how to get you there.

History of the Xá Lợi Pagoda

Construction began in August 1956 and the pagoda was formally opened on May 2, 1958. It has a much more modern design, with less ornamentation, than many other Buddhist temples in Vietnam. In 1963, the South Vietnamese president, Ngô Đình Diệm, a Roman Catholic, ordered the raid and vandalization of Xá Lợi and several other nearby pagodas, in response to widening protests by the Vietnamese people against suppression of Buddhism in South Vietnam.

The raids, as well as other blatant mistreatment of Buddhist adherents, turned out to be a major political blunder for Diệm and many believe these contributed to his downfall. Prior to the raids, for example, the Vietnamese were ambivalent regarding religion. But they became intolerant of Diệm’s direct and unprovoked violence against a faith perceived as peaceful and non-threatening.

President Diệm was assassinated, along with his brother, later in 1963. In addition to the Buddha relic, the charred heart of Thích Quảng Đức, the monk who set himself ablaze to protest against the policies Diệm, is housed in Xá Lợi as well.

Visiting the Xá Lợi Pagoda

If you go, you will need to enter from the side, as the front gate is almost always locked. Motorbike parking is also available at the side entrance. The temple doesn’t charge for parking, but there is a wooden donation box just to the side of the entrance and donations of about 5,000 dong (US$0.22) are very much appreciated.

The Statue of Quan Âm

The statue of Quan Âm Outside Xa Loi Pagoda in Saigon

First, on the exterior side of the pagoda, you will encounter a statue of the bodhisattva Quan Âm, the deity of mercy and compassion, cherished by Buddhists. This statue is designed in Chinese style and depicts her holding a vase pouring out an elixir in one hand and making a gesture of peace in the other.

Almost all Buddhist pagodas in Vietnam have a statue of Quan Âm somewhere in their exterior garden. After visiting the statue, head around to the front of the pagoda, where you will see two sets of stairs.

Years ago, visitors to the pagoda would separate by gender, with men ascending via the stairs on the left side, and men on the right. However, these days, I have seen both men and women using whichever staircase they prefer.

The Main Hall

The Main Hall of Xa Loi Pagoda is peaceful and interesting to see.

The pagoda’s main hall is at the top of the stairs. Be sure to remove your shoes before entering. Inside, you will see the huge, bronze-colored statue of Guatama Buddha, seated in a meditation position atop a lotus blossom.

He is wearing the robes of a monk and has a noticeable protuberance on his head, indicating intelligence and understanding, and has closely cropped hair, symbolic of his renunciation of his wordily life. The sun disk behind his head is symbolic of his enlightenment.

The statue was created by local sculptures and has remained unchanged since 1969, when a gold coating was applied. The relics of the pagoda are enshrined in a small stupa (the Buddhist version of a steeple).

As is common in Buddhist temples, an image of the “Laughing Buddha,” symbolic of good fortune, wealth, a successful career, and a fulfilling life rests just under the main Buddha statue. golden image of multi-armed Cundi sitting in meditation on a lotus blossom. The statue’s many hands hold symbolic objects such as a lotus flower (purification), a sword (wisdom), a wheel (eternal life), and an axe (cutting off of evil practices).

Chinese-style vases on both sides of the altar hold flowers of various colors as part of the offerings to the Buddhas.

The large “sun disk” behind his head indicates enlightenment. The statue was carved in Biên Hòa, a city to the north of Saigon. In front of the statue of the Buddha is an encased shrine housing the relics of the Buddha.

Scenes from the life of Gautama Buddha

While inside, take a close look at the series of large panels overhead near the ceiling. These are famous hand-painted scenes depicting the life of the Buddha, from his birth to his attainment of nirvana.

The paintings were created by Dr. Nguyen Van Long, an instructor at a local art school. Many Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia will have similar scenes of the Buddha’s life painted on their walls. There is a key explaining each scene in English located on a large chart just to the right inside the main entrance. Also worth noting is the large image of the Buddha seated in meditation under a fig tree.

The Bell Tower

The bell tower of the Xa Loi Pagoda in Saigon

The bell tower of Xá Lợi Pagoda was opened in 1961. The tower rises to 105 feet (32 meters) tall, has seven stories, and is the highest bell tower in Vietnam. On the uppermost level, there is a bell weighing two tons.

The Xá Lợi Pagoda is well worth a visit to truly understand an important part of the history of Ho Chi Minh City. Take the time to visit this interesting and historical venue.

Getting to Xa Loi Pagoda

Address: 89 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City
Open Hours: Daily from 7:00am to 11:00am and from 2:00pm to 5:00pm. (Hours are often irregular, so it’s best to avoid lunchtime hours.